The original Lola Rojo - the second branch in Fulham closed at the end of 2011 - remains a destination for good, fun Spanish food. The stylishly modern dining room is lively, the tables close-packed and the service a bit erratic, though most regulars don't seem to mind. Possibly because interesting nueva cocina (new-wave Spanish cooking) dishes leap from the menu like caged bulls into a ring.

There's piquillo peppers, laid flat like a matador's cloak, then topped with garlicky prawns plus a few leaves of spinach for the shock of colour; or tiny clam shells in a tomato and bean broth that evokes the coast and tastes of summer. Such tapas-sized dishes are very tempting, but they are also small, so the bill adds up fast. Larger helpings include paellas, such as black rice with squid and saffron alioli.

The wine list takes almost as much pride of place as the dishes, with well-chosen wines from good emerging Spanish regions and producers, though the choice of crisp sherries by the glass is curiously limited. On warm market days, the tiny terrace becomes the place to sit on a bar stool and observe the paseo down Northcote Road.