Bird is not easy to miss. Starting at about midnight, the restaurant tables disappear and diners are displaced by a young upscale crowd, all clutching cocktails and swaying to the music.

The bar is always filled to capacity, with many partygoers spilling into the streets in a cloud of cigarette smoke and conversation.

Bird is not easy to miss. Starting at about midnight, the restaurant tables disappear and diners are displaced by a young upscale crowd, all clutching ...