Trattoria da Lucia lets you enjoy simple, traditional food at a good price in a great scene. It's the quintessential rustic, 100 percent Roman Trastevere dining experience, and has been family-run since World War II. You'll meet four generations of the family, including Giuliano and Renato, their uncle Ennio, and Ennio's mom — pictured on the menu in the 1950s. The family specialty is spaghetti alla Gricia, with pancetta bacon.
While touristy, the Campo de' Fiori offers a classic romantic square setting. And, since it is so close to the collective heart of Rome, it remains popular with locals. For atmosphere over food value, circle the square, considering each place. Bars and pizzerias seem to overwhelm the square.