A culinary temple devoted to this staple and other traditional dishes is All’Osteria Bottega, a cozy space with wood floors and painted furniture overseen by its jovial owner, Daniele Minarelli. Plates of mortadella and cheese are followed by dishes like freshly made tagliatelle con culatello (considered the most delicate part of a pork haunch), eggplant Parmesan and house specialties like grilled pigeon.