Books abound — holding the menus, lining the walls — at Book (Rua de Aviz 10; 351-91-795-3387; restaurante-book.com), a cozy, candlelit and self-consciously literary restaurant that opened this fall. Thanks to nouveau Portuguese cuisine that burnishes prosaic ingredients into poetic dishes (witness pork cheeks with tripe or veal steak in Torres wine sauce), the restaurant is already a best seller. Fish soup has a zesty tomato base, chunky texture, crunchy croutons and nuggets of local shrimp. The rack of lamb is also fine, thanks to a port wine reduction with hints of vanilla and spice. Sponge cake, a Porto obsession, arrives as a lush mush with orange and kiwi slices.

The smooth house wine, a Terras do Grifo red, is additional proof that Porto can do more than just port. Dinner for two, without wine: about 55 euros.