For more than a decade, Scalinatella has been famous for two things: superlative traditional Italian cooking and a colorful cast of deep-pocketed devotees who can afford it.

Order like a regular, skipping the short, pedestrian menu in favor of recited signature specials: Exquisitely grilled balsamic-garlic "scotta dita" lamb, and gargantuan, tender veal chops slathered with porcini are worth the trip alone.

Pastas and fish are exemplary: Light ragu-tossed tagliatelle, delicate ricotta ravioli and roasted Dover sole couldn't be more delicious.

Only the accompanying bland polenta and carrot-broccoli melange seem uninspired.